The Secret to Boosting Collagen? Peptides.

Here’s How To Add This Powerhouse Ingredient To Your Skincare

By Kendall Farr, Licensed Esthetician, SPADA Skincare 

Peptides have recently become a hot topic in skincare. That’s because they are front and center in formulations designed for truly noticeable changes in the skin’s appearance. From the newest serums to moisturizers and eye repair, to treatments that deliver an out-of-this-world-glow, they all have peptide-infused chemistry in common. It’s known as ‘dermo-intervention’ a term for the impressive efficacy of multi-peptides as a part of smart delivery systems that target specific cellular activity. Talk about efficiency. Specific peptides are ‘designed’ in formulations that penetrate deep into the cells where they stimulate collagen and elastin production. If you are after a noticeable change in your skin’s firmness and overall texture, peptide-rich formulas should be central in your skin care. And while they are brilliant as the main attraction in a product, peptides also play a starring role as a collagen-building partner in Vitamin C serums and in Retinol creams (Vitamin A). Bottom line: added peptides can drive maximum anti-aging effects in your skin.  

So What are Peptides Exactly?

First, a little bit of science. Peptides form when two or more amino acids are linked together in a chain. This is key: Every peptide has a unique sequence of amino acids, and it’s that unique sequence that activates the peptide’s function in skin repair. 

How Do Peptides Benefit Skin?

Almost all peptides serve the same primary function: to build collagen and elastin in the skin. This is important in fighting fine lines and deeper wrinkles because both are a type of protein and make up our skin’s matrix – what keeps it looking firm and tight. As we age, we produce less of each and the stores we do have break down progressively. So, applying topical ingredients – like peptides- that help our skin re-build collagen and elastin becomes vital for maintaining skin that looks and acts like younger (firmer, tighter) skin.  

While most peptides can help keep the skin looking firm, you may get added benefits depending on which types of peptides you’re using. Remember how each peptide is made up of a unique sequence of amino acids? This sequence is what allows certain beneficial functions like reducing inflammation, skin brightening, speedier wound healing, and stimulation of the skin’s native hyaluronic acid production. 

What Are the Different Types of Peptides in Skin Care?

A little more science. Anytime you see ‘multi-peptide’ promoted in a skincare formula it may indicate a mix (or all) of these four types of peptides that perform unique functions in the skin:  

• Signal Peptides generate a signal in your skin cells to trigger a specific reaction – like telling a cell to produce more collagen or to make hyaluronic acid.  
• Neurotransmitter-Affecting Peptides interact with the neurotransmitters in your cells. They slow down the signal sent to your brain when you move your facial muscles to make an expression. This softens the movement, so it becomes less dramatic, making it less likely to produce a deep wrinkle over time. If that sounds like Botox, the effect is a much milder version of what happens when you’re injected with a neurotoxin to prevent the muscles from contracting. 
• Carrier Peptides. Carrier peptides help carry other molecules into cells. An example would be copper peptides; the peptide delivers a copper molecule into the cell where it plays a crucial role in the production of collagen.  
• Enzyme-Inhibitor Peptides. As the name suggests, enzyme-inhibitor peptides work to inhibit enzymes that break down the skin’s stores of collagen and elastin.

What is the Best Age to Start Using Peptides? How Often Should You Use Them?

Like most ingredients formulated to work on skin aging, peptides should be added into your routine from the late 20’s to early 30’s. This is when we first lose our ability to manufacture collagen quickly. By our early-30s, our native collagen supply has started to degrade. In addition to a preventative routine for your skin type and condition, incorporating the power of peptides in your skincare can manage the progression of skin aging.  

If you are new to peptides -the time is now. It’s never too late to benefit from peptide rich products or treatments. Like anything skincare, consistency is key. The more frequently you use them the more effective they’ll be. Most studies of multi-peptide formulations report results based on day and night application. One of the best things about peptides is that they are well-tolerated by all skin types (assuming they’re formulated in a base your skin tolerates). Don’t worry about overdoing it or experiencing dryness or irritation, as can happen with retinol, for example.  

ProTip:  If you are actively breaking out – skip peptides for now. Work with your esthetician to find products that will clear and calm your skin first.  Likely you may be using benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, or glycolic acid to combat your acne congestion and these cause peptides to oxidize, break down and lose their effectiveness.  

When Will You See Results?  

Three months – roughly three cycles of cellular turnover- is a good rule of thumb. The ultimate results are happening at the cellular level, so give your skin time to respond. Also, keep in mind that peptides are about prevention, so sometimes it’s more about what you don’t see – like the development of deeper lines, for one thing,  than what you do see. 

Are you ready for your dermo-intervention? Add the power of peptides to your skincare and watch a visible change in your skin’s firmness and texture. Our team of estheticians is here to help you choose the best in treatments and home care to help your skin transformation. For more information and to book a treatment click here.